Dhaka rain warning incoming! Forget paddleboats and life jackets-here is how we actually survive monsoon season, real Dhaka style!
First, grab your trusty umbrella (which flips inside-out in 2 seconds flat). Roll your trousers up to your knees, tie two polythene shopping bags around your shoes, and seal your smartphone inside a clear plastic pouch.
Then comes the main boss fight: finding a rickshaw! If you're lucky enough to catch one, be ready to pay your life savings for the ride. You hop on, tuck your feet up to your chest like an origami bird to avoid the brown river water below, and pray for the best.
If your umbrella survives the storm, your phone stays dry in its plastic bag, and you manage to dodge every street snatcher on the way-congratulations, you've officially won at life!
Rainy weather practically demands two things: spicy food and a deep nap. Sure, rain in a city like Dhaka means waterlogged streets and a total nightmare for school and office commuters-so forgive me for sounding a bit too romantic here, but I just have to talk about Biryani!
According to Google Gemini, "Biryani is an aromatic and flavourful mixed rice dish made with fragrant long-grain Basmati rice, warm spices, and a protein like chicken, mutton, or beef, originating with the Mughals."
Well, thank goodness AI hasn't figured out Dhaka's biryani scene yet-and especially the legendary food lore of Mohammadpur! If Gemini actually knew the secrets behind Geneva Camp's biryani, it'd probably stop answering questions and just order a plate for itself!
As a Geneva Campian, thinking back to those nostalgic food memories instantly brings back the mouthwatering aromas of my childhood. Dhaka's biryani is a unique fusion of old Mughal recipes mixed with heavy local influences. Instead of long Basmati, we use short, fragrant Chinigura or Kataribhog rice. And instead of mutton, beef reigns supreme here.
Back in the 80s and 90s, only a handful of places sold biryani in Mohammadpur. The most famous was Showkat Biriyani in Town Hall Market. But the real star of the show was tucked inside Geneva Camp: Kamal Biriyani.
I still remember getting a half-plate of Kacchi Biryani for just 10 Taka! It came with two generous pieces of beef and a giant potato (aloo). For an extra 5 or 10 Taka, you could add a juicy Sheekh Kabab-a match made in foodie heaven! Even as a growing kid with a massive appetite, finishing that half-plate was a real challenge. As old-timers say, there was true Barakah (blessing) in the food back then.
Eventually, other vendors realised Kamal was onto something and started popping up everywhere.
One tiny, hidden gem was run by my friend Arman's father. Everyone called it Chacha's Biryani. For just 20 Taka, you got local (deshi) chicken with fragrant, saffron-infused rice. The absolute best part? Right before handing over the plate, Chacha would splash a big spoon of rich gravy (jhol) over the top-pure magic! He cooked strictly 5 kg of biryani a day and opened from 12:00 PM to 3:00 PM. If you were late... well, better luck tomorrow, because when it was gone, it was gone!
Then came the rise of new biryani shops, and the most unforgettable character of them all was Kholil. Back in the 80s, Kholil started out selling Halim near Masjid-e-Bilal. His Halim was wildly popular-not necessarily for the taste, but because of a hilarious local urban legend that his secret ingredient was "melted cockroach soup." Yuck! I never actually saw a cockroach in my bowl, and trust me, I only had it a few times! I'm not lying!
Eventually, around 1997-1998, Kholil dropped the Halim and moved on to Biryani. He created his famous Kholil Tehari-tiny, super tasty pieces of beef cooked in mustard oil. That unique mustard kick made him a superstar in just weeks! Believe it or not, a small plate was only 5 Taka! And no, before you ask, it definitely wasn't Kawwa Biryani! How was that even possible? Well, it was Geneva Camp! If you wanted to succeed there, your food had to be two things: delicious and cheap. Hygiene? What kind of bird is that?
Today, Mohammadpur has expanded to almost four times its original size, and biryani stalls have taken over every single corner. For many Dhaka residents-especially Gen Z-biryani is no longer just a festive treat; it's a daily meal. You can spot the iconic red cloth-draped heavy pots (deg) everywhere you turn.
Let's talk about biryani prices. These days, a basic plate costs anywhere from 150 to 350 Taka-at this rate, we'll need to buy our lunch on EMI! Thank goodness for the OG legends in Geneva Camp like Kamal, Boba, and Mama. They are still serving up 100 Taka plates like true heroes for budget biryani lovers.
Meanwhile, you may ask, what happened to Kholil? He gave up cooking Tehari and switched to selling beauty products-now offering lipstick, shampoo, and hair oil! Are the cockroaches still around? Who knows! But with all that hair oil in the shop, at least they must be looking super sleek and shiny by now!
The author is engaged in freelance research and coordination for international universities; writing real-life stories is his growing interest.
